Free Diy 9 Drawer Dresser Plans

Alright you guys. I'm going to exist splitting this tutorial into split up parts because I desire to share all the claret (yes, there was blood – but it's non what y'all think), sweat (buckets of it thank you to the brutal Southern summer heat and humidity), and tears (because I am a girl, later on all) information technology took to build this beast of a dresser.

If you're just joining u.s., I'grand building a nine-drawer dresser for my brother-in-law. First of all, I must have drawn upwardly 10 unlike plans for this thing in my quest to find the best, most efficient, and soundest way of building information technology. Yous may call up my first and second attempts at designing my brother-in-law'south dresser. Yep. Oh, and don't forget the matching nightstands.

Read the consummate tutorial:

• Function One: Building the Carcass (you're hither!)
• Part Two: Building the Large Drawers
• Role Iii: Building the Small Drawers
• Office 4: The Last Details

As usual, I used my favorite plywood, Purebond Plywood for the sides and bottom. It's the prettiest plywood at The Habitation Depot. I bought the 3/four″ maple species.

Oh, and here's a first – I bought my lumber from a lumber benefactor and ripped and planed my own boards! You guys. I googled "lumber benefactor" or "lumber wholesaler" in my area and let me tell you: LIFE-CHANGING. Not but do they carry a broad array of wood species (maple, alder, cherry, mahogany, walnut, etc.), simply the boards are nicer and ordinarily one-half the toll of the large box stores! I know, Right?! Heart eyes all over the place, y'all. And I love supporting local small businesses, don't you?

Seriously, I was like a kid in a processed shop at my local lumberyard. Now, the main deviation is lumberyards will accuse past the board foot and non the linear pes (like the large box stores), so I'd recommend you lot familiarize yourself with calculating board feet to effigy out how much fabric you'll need for your projects. Simply the brusque version is: one board human foot = 12″ by 12″ by 1″. And the formula to calculate board feet is: length x width 10 thickness / 144.

And so permit's say I want to buy a 1×8 viii-foot board. The cost per board foot for maple is about $2.63 where I live so I'd calculate (I round upwards simply to brand things easier) length ten width x thickness: 96 x 8 x 1 = 768, so divide that number past 144 = 5.3333333… so that board is approximately five.3333333 board feet, correct? Then I take 5.3333333… and multiply that by $2.63 (price per board pes) = $14.03. So I'll pay about $14 for that 1x8x8 maple board. Brand sense?

One day I'll dedicate a whole post on this discipline because there's a lot to learn and consider when purchasing lumber from a lumberyard, but in the meantime, this video covers the basics.

Besides, if yous don't own a table saw or a planer, ownership your lumber from a lumberyard won't do you much good because you'll need to prepare your stock before you build with it. Lumber sold in lumberyards ordinarily come in random widths, and then you'll have to rip your boards on a table saw to whatever width you need for your project. Also, at my lumberyard, the boards are 1/16″ thicker than 3/4″ so I had to airplane them downward to a true 3/4″ thickness showtime. I chose to use maple for both my solid woods boards and plywood.

First, I cut my plywood side panels to size and drilled three/4″ pocket holes facing up, down, and towards the front. I used a table saw to rip my plywood, but you can likewise use a round saw with a straight edge. Then I attached the 1×iv "trim" to the plywood sides with wood glue and i-1/iv″ brad nails. Next I attached the trimmed out sides to the bottom with one-ane/4″ pocket hole screws and gum.

So I talked well-nigh shedding claret earlier. This is why I belong in the workshop and not in the kitchen. One night, I was cutting up some tomatoes for dinner and sliced virtually 1/16″ off my thumb. Well, not all the manner off. It was hanging by a thread, and so I had this 'flap' of thumb only waving in the wind. Gross, I know, but howdy?! Thank God it wasn't a tabular array saw or a compound miter saw, right?! Whew (for a second at that place)!

Kitchen knife. I know: shenaniganry.

And do you know how challenging information technology is to build with a gimpy thumb? Extremely.

At present that I had my sides and lesser synthetic, it was time to add the horizontal supports (i.east. build the carcass). I used 1×3 boards for these supports. I cut a couple of 2x4s to 9-ane/two″ long to serve as spacers. They were actually useful in holding my boards up while I drove the screws in.

Attach with three/4″ pocket holes and 1-i/iv″ pocket hole screws.

And I also talked about sweat. Buckets of information technology, you guys. BUCKETS. Summertime in the Southward. That's all I'g going to say about that.

Adjacent, I fastened the i×2 divider trim to the front. I used my brad nailer and nailed a couple nails to hold the 1x2s in place and then that I could bulldoze the screws in. The nails also keep the 1x2s from spinning. I used a speed square to make sure they were foursquare.

Depending on what kind of drill yous have, you lot may need to use a shorty pocket hole drill chip like this one. It might be a tight fit to get the drill in to spiral the 1×2 trim pieces on.

Here's the entire carcass constructed, with the front trim attached:

Don't listen those burn marks on the sides. I did that with my saw blade. Good thing they'll go covered upwards with some decorative cove moulding later.

Oh, and I also mentioned tears. Yep. They're coming. Simply non now. Shortly. Because the adjacent step is to build the drawer boxes. I'll exist back to share that in function two so stay tuned!

Read the complete tutorial:

• Part 1: Building the Carcass (you're here!)
• Role Two: Building the Big Drawers
• Office 3: Building the Modest Drawers
• Office Four: The Concluding Details

Pin it for later!

pacefrod1962.blogspot.com

Source: https://jenwoodhouse.com/diy-dresser-01/